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02 Dec 2016 19:43

Gaz Parry Interview by Evie

Evie Interviews Gaz Parry

White Spider Masterclass 2016/7 Winter Series

 

Gaz Parry is one of the best and most accomplished climbers on the UK climbing scene. He redpoints F8c+ spots routes and boulders V13. He is involved in many aspects of the climbing world… he routesets, he coaches and he imports climbing holds to the UK, he is one of the founders of Blokfest. He has been manager of the British Bouldering Team and he is the only British climber to win the Arco rock masters international boulder comp.

Evie caught up with him after his coaching masterclass at White Spider on Monday 7th Nov…

How long have you been climbing?
I started when I was 12 so 31 years.

 

How did you start?
My friend’s Dad took us out to a place called Cadshaw Rocks near where I lived. On my 1st outing I climbed an E1 5a!

 

Where are you from?
Bury, Lancashire, UK

 

Where do you live now?
Veliko Turnovo in Bulgaria

 

 auto-b

What do you love most about climbing?
1. The people, the scene
2. The moves – like the satisfaction of doing a hard move
3. Completion – the feeling of finishing something and getting closure. Achievement.

What is the best Route you’ve done?
Usually it’s always the last one I’ve just done. Which this time is an 8a+ called “1st of Jan” in Bulgaria.

What is the best boulder problem you’ve done?
“Riverbed”  V13 in Magic Wood Switzerland. I loved the complexity of all the little movements coming together.

What is your favourite climbing discipline?
For comps it’s boulder. For climbing outside it’s [sport] routes. For setting it’s boulder or routes for comps.

How long have you been coaching?
Over 10 years. I started at The North West Youth Festival and now do coaching holidays mostly like in Kalymnos and Fontainebleau and occasionally the one off masterclass like with you guys.

 

What is your best bit of training advice?
Have a goal [project] to train for. Too many people are training with no goal. If you don’t have a goal then just climb and save the training for when you have one.

 

Advice for someone climbing indoors for 2 years who wants to push through a plateau and get to the next level?
Get some coaching. Regular coaching with good technique, otherwise you just do your beginners course and get you harness and repeat bad habits until they’re ingrained. Or climb with a motivated partner who is slightly better than you so you can learn from them.

 

You’ve won the coveted Arco title. How did you feel? Emotions?
I felt normal. It didn’t feel real until after. I was doing a lot of comps then (9 years ago) and got on the podium for a few world cups too. The same year I also won the Norwegian Masters so it just felt normal.

 

 

 

 coaching

 

What is in the future for Gaz Parry?
Go climbing 🙂

 

Gaz is sponsored by:
Scarpa UK
Grivel
Edelweiss
3rd Rock


04 Nov 2016 15:55

Emma Twyford – Winter Masterclass Interview

Will McEvoy Interviews Emma Twyford

White Spider Masterclass 2016/7 Winter Series

 

Last month, Emma Twyford gave a great Masterclass to kick off the White Spider Masterclass Winter Series. Will McEvoy, head of coaching, made sure to interview Emma.  Here’s what she told us:

 

How long have you been climbing?  23 years! I was 7 when I started.

 

How did you start? My dad started climbing and doing lots of outdoor stuff. He tried to drag me, my brother and sister into it but it only stuck for me. Really my dad and his friends taught me how to climb.

 

Where are you from?  The Lakes- a proper northerner!

 

 emma_lyingdown

Any tips for those who have been climbing indoors for a year or two? Something that can make a massive improvement.   

  • Footwork and movement are the key ones. if you start climbing inside you have all these positive holds so people don’t look at the basics of how to use their feet and move properly. Eg you can try taking out the hand hold so you only climb on [arrest] and grooves.
  • Have a play time on a problem. Try once and do it one way, then try again and do it differently. See which works better and why.
  • Watch other climbers – see how and why they climb well.
  • People think they need to train to get stronger but, in fact, most people would see greatest improvement by focusing on their technique.

 

How about coaching? Says Will (our head of coaching)!  Yeah! have some coaching! Everyone thinks they use their feet but coaching and video is useful way to see what really happens.  Accuracy matters. If you haven’t placed that first foot hold well, chances are when you go for the next move you’ll hesitate. If that first foot hold is accurate, your moves will be more fluid.

emma_instructing

 

Do you have a favourite climbing moment? A favourite route? Obviously, you like in North Wales which is the best playground ever! Probably one of the earliest moments I had was “Statement of Youth”. I didn’t I appreciate just how hard the route was until afterwards. It came together so easily – for an 8A that is. It was my first 8A flash in the UK. Then, of course, there is “Lord of the Flies” the E6 6A at “The Cromlech”.

 

Well that is such a classic route, a piece of climbing history, a route you dream about! How did you find it?  It suited my style. The first moves were bold and serious and you needed to keep calm. But the holds were better than I thought they would be.

 

 

If you could live anywhere in the world? North Wales! Or if I had a choice of two places then North Wales in the summer and Spain in the Winter.

 

 

What’s your favourite climbing discipline?  Trad- always trad. There’s a bit of everything in trad and it’s got all the great history around it. It can be humbling to think someone climbed a route back in the 1930s in hobnail boots.

 

 

Thank you Emma for joining us!

 

 

 

Will

 

 emma_alps

 

Check out Emma on her website www.emmatwyford.co.uk

as well as on twitter @EmmaTwyford and Facebook


20 May 2016 12:40

New Route Cards

colour box image

We are always trying to improve your climbing experience at White Spider Climbing and our latest improvement is to colour code particular grade ranges on the route display cards.

For example, if you climb grades up to 6a+ you will be a green and blue climber. You can then look around the centre for routes based on theses colours, and even if you can’t read the grades from a distance you will quickly be able to identify all the routes in those colour ranges that you can climb!

We always love to hear from you so let us know what you think of this or any other ideas on our feedback forms.

Enjoy!


05 Mar 2015 10:39

SETTER INTERVIEW – MATT BIRCH

Many of you will have seen Matt Birch recently at White Spider hosting the Evolv boot demo and setting great blocs. On Friday 6th March Matt  is back setting the White Spider Monthly Boulder Comp. Matt is one of the country's best climbers and a great route setter. We caught up with him on his last visit to find out a bit more……

Name: Matthew Birch
Favourite Climbing Music: None. Rather climb with the sounds of nature.
Favourite Crag Food?: Bagel
How did you first get into climbing? When Hiking in the lake district with my parents I thought I wanted to climb big mountains so I started climbing. As soon as I started I was hooked with technical climbing.
How long have you been climbing? 27 years!
What is your proudest achievement in climbing: Every day I go out.
What's your favorite problem/route you've ever done? The most memorable was doing The Cad on North stack wall when I was 18.
Why was it so good? It was just one of those days were everything flowed and it was like I watched myself do the route.
Where is your favourite crag- In UK: Not sure if it’s my Favourite, but Rubicon wall holds some good memories.
Outside UK: Buttermilks in California.
If you could give someone one piece of advice for climbing, what would it be? Just enjoy it whether you succeed or fail.
Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from? In climbing I’m inspired by the move/process. The drive comes from within.
If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead? No clue
How long have you been route setting? I think I first started in 1998, but took a break for a while.
What do you love most about setting? Trying to create moves that I have done or would like to do.
Where do you get your inspiration for route setting? From all the years I have climbed.
What's coming up next for you? A 200 mile drive north up the M1


Matt on Reach for the Peach, Yosemite, USA
 

Matt's Sponsors: Evolv, Blurr, Metolius and Beyond Hope

 


06 Jan 2015 12:34

Scarpa woodies

New Wooden Boulder Circuit…! New problems set with the beautiful Scarpa commissioned beastmaker holds, set by Yann Genoux and Evie Cotrulia.

Scarpa woodies

These beautifully crafted holds will be at White Spider for January and February courtesy of Scarpa UK, then touring the country at other slected walls.

So come on down and try them out…..!


22 Oct 2014 13:43

SETTER INTERVIEW – NED FEEHALLY

Ned "The Baker" Fehally is 3 times British Bouldering Champion. He has competed in bouldering world cups and has made finals. He's not a bad setter either! Ned came in to White Spider recently to set the boulder comp wall, and we caught up with him to find out a bit more……..

Ned On Zombie Nation, 8a, Albarracin

Ned on Zombie Nation, 8a, Albarracin


Name: Ned Feehally
Where are you from?: Sheffield
Favourite Climbing Music?: Anything with a beat
Favourite Crag Food?: Soreen malt loaf
How did you first get into climbing?: A friend of the family took my brothers and I out in the Lakes. I liked it and after that I started going to the local wall and eventually getting out rock climbing at weekends
How long have you been climbing?: 18 years
What is your proudest achievement in climbing?: Making World cup finals is probably the hardest thing I have done but I am pretty proud of some of my ascents on rocks over the years
What's your favorite problem/route you've ever done?: It has to be Careless Torque at Stanage
Why was it so good?: Amazing moves, good height, lots of history and it's in a great place
Where is your favorite crag- In UK?: St. Bees in Cumbria
Outside UK?: Fontainbleau
If you could give someone one piece of advice for climbing, what would it be?: Make sure you enjoy it!
Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from?: I get inspired by big, impressive boulders with cool moves on them. It's easy to train if you have a goals like this in mind
If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead?: I'd probably have a real job somewhere. I like to think I'd still spend a lot of time outdoors tho
How long have you been route setting?: Maybe 4 years on and off
What do you love most about setting?: Trying to set interesting and unique moves
Where do you get your inspiration for route setting?: From rock climbing mainly, but also from the possibility of setting moves that you could never find outdoors
What's coming up next for you?: A bouldering trip to America hopefully!
 

Sponsors: 5.10, Arc'teryx, Wild Country, Beastmaker

         

 

Ned on Jack's Broken Heart, 8a+, Magic Wood


08 Oct 2014 13:32

Setter Interview: Ben West

Ben West is is top UK climber, route setter and climbing coach. He is part of the British Bouldering Team and competes at  a World Cup level. He recently came in to White Spider set the lower bouldering mezz and we're excited to have him back again next Thursday 16th Oct to set some lead routes. We caught up with Ben last time he was in to ask him a few questions and get to know him better……..

Ben West

Ben West Competing at Blokfest 2014

Name: Ben West
Where are you from: Bristol
Favourite Climbing Music: Anything electronic and generally with a beat
Favourite Crag Food?: Smoked Almands
How did you first get into climbing?: A school trip to Undercover Rock
How long have you been climbing?: 14yrs
What is your proudest achievement in climbing?: Climbing the FA of Helvetia 8c at Shipwreck Cove, The Gower
What's your favorite problem/route you've ever done?: Theres so many, Conquistador 8a+ has to be one of them in Chironico, Switzerland and obviously Helvetia
Why was it so good?: Conquistador is all about compression which is one of my favourite styles. And Helvetia because its the first thing I have really put any time in to. 
Where is your favourite crag- In UK?: It would be a toss up between LPT, Shipwreck or Kilnsey          
Outside UK?: Rocklands
If you could give someone one piece of advice for climbing, what would it be?: For those that haven’t tried it before, Do it! you won’t regret it.
Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from?: The youth of today inspire me, seeing how hard they work. I’m motivated by all styles of rock climbing, I love the fact that if you get slightly board of doing one thing or you fancy doing something else (say bouldering) you can move on to Sport, trad, comps etc. What ever floats your boat really. 
 If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead?: No idea
 How long have you been route setting?: 10yrs or so
What do you love most about setting?: Being creative and watching people trying to work out what you have set
Where do you get your inspiration for route setting?: I guess a lot of my inspiration comes from comps but also moves you have done outside. and my heroes would be  the likes Jackie Godoff, Ian Vickers & Andy Long
What's coming up next for you?: Off to Font next weekend then I guess I better start getting back on the training for next years comp season
Who are your sponsors?: Evolv, Prana and Metolius

               


Ben West on "Helvetia" F8c
 


21 May 2014 12:35

White Spiders Lead Comp Wall Reset!

COMPWALL

Liam Halsey and Yann Genoux are busy setting our comp wall! … it will include a comp style 8a feature route with 30+ moves!


Over 12 new routes with grades ranging from 5+ to 8a! … guaranteed to satisfy every level of lead climber!


It'll be ready this evening! … Get your boots on and get climbing!


Cheers,
The White Spider Team,


14 May 2014 14:47

James Garden setting here at White Spider Climbing

JAMES

GB team member James Garden is at White Spider Climbing setting on lines 99, 100 and 101 … meaning there's over 10 new routes to get on later this afternoon!

James is also in tomorrow setting more routes! …

 

… over the past two weeks we have also had Dave Barrens, Yann Genoux, Alex Fry and White Spiders Stew setting on over 10 lines! … better get down here and get on 'em!

Let us know what you think of the routes!

 

WS Boulder Comp Wall Update: The stairs are open to use, this means the upper bouldering area is open as well as the boulder cave and main boulder area, the training area remains closed.

 

Cheers,
The White Spider Team,


25 Apr 2014 17:50

Boulder Cave Setting!

cave+newboulder


. . and talk of a New Boulder Comp Wall here at White Spider!

 

Gaz Parry and Yann Genoux are busy setting our awesome boulder cave today! Grades ranging from an easy 6a through the roof to a disgustingly difficult 8a! . . using some great new holds thanks to Core Climbing!

. . . and for some more exciting news! We can confirm that we're building a Boulder Comp Wall here at White Spider Climbing! . . . stay tuned for more information!


Psyched!
The White Spider Team


11 Apr 2014 12:51

White Spider Climbing – Stalactite Roof – Looking Awesome!

stalroof-update


Steve McClure and Yann Genoux are busy setting some seriously incredible routes through our 20m long stalactite roof today! They even have a bunch of brand new and colourful lapis holds to play with!

Lines 28 – 38 will be ready to climb on tonight! That's 10 new lines to get on! 

See you all then!

Cheers,
The White Spider Team,

 


10 Apr 2014 16:34

White Spider Climbing – Stalactite Roof – Update!

stalroof-update

 

Pro climber Steve McClure and Evie have almost finished day one of setting, tomorrow world cup setter Yann Genoux will be joining Steve McClure on the roof for some more wicked and exciting route setting! 

Tomorrow evening the stalactite roof is all yours! Watch this space!

Happy Days,
The White Spider Team,


04 Apr 2014 12:46

Stalactite Roof Re-Set!!!

stal roof

Big news guys! Our awesome stalactite roof is having a massive re-set! This is happening next week, so if you have any projects or climbs you really enjoy, you better get down here and get on them!

 

Lines 28 – 32 will be stripped on the 8th/9th and setting will begin on the 10th and finish on the 11th! . . .

 

New routes are being put up by pro climber Steve McClure as well as world cup setter Yann Genoux and the wonderful Evie!!!

 

Psyched!

The White Spider Team


01 Apr 2014 17:05

New Routes & New Boulders!

We're busy setting today at White Spider Climbing.

 

boulder set

 

We have Matt setting the Black Circuit V4 – V6


Jade Setting the Orange Circuit V1 – V3


Joe setting lines 50 and 55 in the Courtyard.

 

Lot's of new stuff for everyone to play on!

Happy Climbing!

White Spider Climbing


27 Mar 2014 12:54

New lines = New Routes!

stew

White Spiders Stew is busy setting on lines 43 and 44 today! By late afternoon you will have 8 brand new climbs to crank on graded between 3 and 7a, happy days!


Cheers,
The White Spider Team


26 Mar 2014 16:13

New Routes!

 liam Halsey - New lines

Liam Halsey is at White Spider Climbing today setting on lines 14 and 15! 


Get down here tonight to be the first to check them out! What's more we have our Adult Social running between 7 pm – 9 pm with Stew! Remember the social is at no extra cost, simply pay entry and get involved!


*Please note you have to be a registered climber with us to take part.


Cheers,
The White Spider Team


31 Jan 2014 10:55

GAZ PARRY – Guest Setter Interview

Gaz Parry

We interviewed Gaz Parry when he was here to set for the BMC YCS 2014 at White Spider, and here's what he told us:

 

Name: Gaz Parry
Age: 40

Favourite Climbing Music?: None really, I like to be in my own place rather than someone else's. If music is on at the wall I prefer higher tempo psyche music rather than Mozart…nothing wrong with him though.

 

Favourite Crag Food?: 
Anything to snack on, bread’n’cheese, nuts, dark choc, oranges, apples’n’bananas.

 

How did you first get into climbing?: 
Used to do a lot of walking and scrambling with my dad. So it was just a natural progression.

 

How long have you been climbing?: 
Since I was 12. 

 

What is your proudest achievement in climbing?: Winning Arco Rock Masters 

 

What’s your favourite problem/route you've ever done?: 
Usually the last one, I just love climbing and moves!

 

Why was it so good?: 
My last route was an 8a onsight yesterday. Millennium at Terradets. Great moves and I felt on good form.

 

Where is your favourite crag- In UK?:  
Kilnsey or Goredale   

 

Outside of the UK?: 
Too many to mention!

 

If you could give someone one piece of advice for climbing, what would it be?: 
Don't let go! Too many people give up, drop off or climb down. Fall off going up!!

 

Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from?: 
People climbing better than me, and new and interesting moves, no matter what the grade.

 

If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead?: 
Still something with the outdoors. I used to run mountain marathons and do Taekwondo as a kid.

 

How long have you been route setting?: 
Too long smiley

 

What do you love most about setting?: 
Watching people climb on my problems and have fun.

 

Where do you get your inspiration for route setting?: 
The holds are the inspiration for the moves, good holds = good blocs.

 

What's coming up next for you?: 
A few more days in Spain then back to set Blokfest at Nottingham for the 19th Jan. It’s always on the go though with Blokfest, setting, coaching, climbing, GB Boulder team, hold and clothing sales and my new role with the Mountain Boot Company.

 

Sponsors: Scarpa, Edelweiss, Grivel, Nihil Clothing 

 

website www.gazparryclimbing.com


26 Nov 2013 19:03

Yann Genoux – Routesetter interview!

yann

Yann Genoux is a qualified national route setter having done his course with the F.F.M.E. (trans, French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing) in France.

He has set both the British Bouldering Championships and the British Lead Climbing Championships for 2 years in a row now. 

Yann is recently back from setting a round of the IFSC Lead World Cup in Puurs, Belgium. We caught up with him last time he was in to get to know him a bit better and find out what he's up to when he's not setting at White Spider…


Name: Yann Genoux

Age: 27

Favourite Climbing Music: Upbeat for Comps, nothing outdoors.

Favourite Crag Food?: Potato Farls and Jelly Babies.

How did you first get into climbing? When I was working in France the son of my boss was Francois Lombard, (1st world Champion) he took me climbing 🙂 I was really inspired and hooked straight away.
 
How long have you been climbing? 9 years now

What is your proudest achievement in climbing? Getting out almost every weekend even though I live in London!

What's your favorite problem/route you've ever done? Why was it so good? Freaky Ralph French 8a+ on Portland. It wasn't the highest grade I climbed but took the most attempts. A real challenge for me being shorter because the moves were very long.
 
Where is your favourite crag? In UK: Cheedale Cornice. Outside UK: Siruana. 

If you could give someone one piece of advice for their climbing, what would it be? Don't let go, ha ha, no… stop pretending to try and actually try harder.
 
Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from? Climbing: Killian Fischuber, amazing in every way. Route Setting: Jacky Godoffe, the maestro and legend of setters.

If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead? Easy, I used to be a carpenter so I would continue that.
 
How long have you been route setting? 6 years
 
What do you love most about setting? Making people fall off 😉 Forcing people to make moves outside of their comfort zones.

This year (and last year) you have set the British Bouldering Championships and British Lead Climbing Championships. How were those experiences? It was great to set national championships in the country where I live. I know everyone and the vibe is always good. The setting teams work hard to meet the requirements of the climbers. The standard of climbing is getting higher and higher in this country and it's interesting to watch this develop form one year to next.
 
You recently set your 1st World Cup in Puurs, Belgium. How was that? HARD!!! A different world. Setting and testing 8a's – 8c's all day for several days in a row is tough work, and knowing that you are setting for the strongest climbers in the world and having to separate them to get the podium results. If they all fall off at the same point – no result. If they all top the route – no result, so it has to be just right. Quote from the chief setter Christian Bindhammer sums it up….. "This is not a children's birthday party, this is a World Cup"!  I Loved it! I can't wait to do more.
 

Thanks Yann! 


05 Nov 2013 13:05

Sam Whittaker: Route Setter Interview!

sam Whittaker

White Spider prides itself on getting in world class guest route setters on a regular basis. This interview with Sam Whittaker marks the first in a series of articles that we hope will help inspire you in your climbing, and help you get to know the people behind the routes & problems here at White Spider! We hope you enjoy them… 

 

Name: Sam Whittaker 

 

Age: 36

 

Favourite Climbing Music: Techno , Adam Beyer or Richie Hawtin.

 

Favourite Crag Food?: Protein bar and box of salad.

 

How did you first get into climbing?: Going out to crag with my dad and his mates.

How long have you been climbing?: 22 years

 

What is your proudest achievement in climbing?: Appointment with Death E9 (Wimberry Rocks) or climbing 8c!

 

What's your favorite problem/route you've ever done? Bat Route (8c, Malham) was my favourite because of the process of getting fit enough and experienced enough to climb it. 

Where is your favourite crag?:  Malham

 

If you could give someone one piece of advice for their climbing, what would it be?: Try hard and enjoy all aspects of climbing.

 

Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from?: I just love climbing and I stay super keen by mixing it up a lot, by switching my focus from bouldering to sport climbing and then Trad

 

If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead?: Techno DJ?!
 
 

How long have you been route setting?: 15 years 

 


What do you love most about setting?:  Creating good problems that people enjoy climbing on 

 


What's coming up next for you?: I'm looking forward to a winter's training and bouldering on the grit, followed by a trip to the States in the spring. I've also got a few DJ gigs coming up in November and December including the climbing works 7th birthday party. It's going to be a big night.

 

Sam Whittaker

 

Sponsors?: 

 

logo-scarpaprana_0metolius5361044_300  

 

Thanks Sam! You can check out the new problems in our BOULDER CAVE that Sam set with Yann Genoux, NOW!   

 

 


03 May 2013 15:52

Another busy week setting…

It's been a busy week of re-setting here at White Spider. On Monday we had Yann re-set the training board 

Yann testing

and our own Stew re-set lines 1 and 2. Then on Wednesday we had Mat re-set lines 19 and 68. Lot's to keep you going.

Cheers, the White Spider Climbing Team


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